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Chiswick and Balham, London, United Kingdom

Friday 22 October 2010

In search of the elusive penny bun


By Celine Jeanine, Assistant Manager at Sam’s Brasserie

I grew up in centre of France where mushrooms grow in great quantity. The first autumnal rains were always well received as we knew they meant it was the beginning of the mushroom season. Girolles, ceps, lactaires and many other fine forest treats would be on the menu for the next two months.

We had mushroom hunting class at school, usually during September and October on Fridays, so we could take our harvest home for the weekend. I would then go mushroom hunting again on a Saturday or Sunday with my dad. I remember being very proud of knowing the Latin name of every mushroom I was able to recognise and telling him which ones were edible or not. I realise now that he probably knew all that already!

20 years later, although every day my nail varnish matches my top and I spend far too much money on make up, I still enjoy mushroom picking in mucky woods, surrounded by spiders. Maybe it’s not too dissimilar from buying the perfect outfit - you have to consider the season, the colour, the place…

It’s a warm Sunday afternoon in Kent, following a day of heavy rain. Summer is over and the annual mushroom hunting ritual is about to happen again. We all seem to be a bit over excited!

I get my equipment ready: Wellies, cap, my mushroom knife…. I will grab a stick once I’m in the woods. I ask for plastic bags when I notice that everyone else takes a plastic tray or a basket. I make up an excuse and say “in France we use plastic bags to separate the different types” – but it’s really because you don’t want to tell the other foragers what’s around! We all have a favourite spot and it’s a secret you can only share with your family.

After a 20 minute drive we finally get to our ‘hunting ground’. Birch, larch and chestnut trees and big bushes of holly. Not what I’m used to in France where there would be plenty of oak but there’s such a strong smell of mushroom that I’m still confident I will have a cep omelette or a wild mushroom soup tonight.

They all start picking bay bolete, slippery jacks, winter chanterelles and amethyst deceivers. I’m getting a bit worried, I’d better stay away from colourful mushrooms - they don’t look safe to me. I decide to focus on one target: The penny bun aka cep or porcini.

After 45 minutes luck’s not on my side and I only have two penny buns in my bag whilst everybody else has got a fair bit of everything in their trays. Then I come across twenty girolles (or chanterelles) within a few minutes and my good mood is back as I love them.

I get a funny feeling when I pick mushrooms, I can almost taste them when they are in my hands. Three more penny buns, I’m satisfied now and we can leave. We could stay a bit longer but I’m really looking forward to my dinner!

Thursday 14 October 2010

Thinking about wines for autumn and food to go with them…

By guest writer, Patricia Langton

With autumn now upon us I find myself turning to hearty red wines to go with the great choice of food around at this time of year. Some new season venison and a drop of Argentinian Malbec would hit the spot right now.

Many Italian reds also come into their own as the colder weather and shorter days arrive –Nero d’Avola/Shiraz ‘Il Paradosso’ from Sicily is new to the list at Harrison’s and a great winter warmer.

Pesquera Crianza from one of Spain’s best known wineries – Bodegas Alejandro Fernandez - is also making its debut on the wine list. It hails from Ribera del Duero in northern Spain where the locals pair this rich Tempranillo wine with roast lamb. France has something to offer for every season and every occasion. However at this time of year I look more to Bordeaux, the Rhône and the myriad of wine regions making up the Languedoc-Roussillon in the south of the country. Or, if you’re looking for a New World take on Bordeaux, try the Klein Steenberg red blend at Harrison’s - it’s an inspired choice from the Cape winelands.